Lawn Care

Your lawn is more than just a collection of grass; it's the first impression others get of your home. That's why Paramount Pest's Liqui-Lawn program is the best in the valley!

We offer a variety of lawn services to keep your lawn looking its best.

Fertilizing
Our lawn care programs use fertilizers that slowly meter out their nutrients to the turf, promoting a deep vigorous root system, which leads to a thick, lush, weed free lawn.

Weed Control
We apply a very light coat of a liquid weed control product that controls over 70 different broad-leaf weeds.  This application dries very rapidly and is safe to walk on within an hour after application.

Power Raking
Power Raking removes thatch, which is a tight mat of dead stems and roots, that build up under the surface of your lawn. Some thatch is beneficial to lawns, but too much blocks water, air and nutrients from reaching the soil. Power Raking rids your lawn of thatch to help air, water and fertilizer reach your soil.

Core Aeration
Aeration perforates the soil with small holes to allow air, water and nutrients to penetrate the grass roots. This helps the roots grow deeply and produce a stronger, more vigorous lawn. The main reason for aerating is to alleviate soil compaction.

PreEmergant Application
PreEmergent is an herbicide that helps prevent the germination of weeds.

 

Turf Tips

Thatch
Thatch is a brown, carpet-like layer of dead and undecomposed grass parts that develops between the soil surface and the living grass. Heavy thatch (over 3/4 inches deep), can destroy your lawn by preventing air, water and fertilizer from entering the soil. It also provides ideal conditions for the promotion of lawn disease, insect infestation and shallow rooting. REMOVAL: Any lawn which has a thatch layer in excess of 3/4 inches deep should be dethatched. Dethatching should be performed in the early fall for best results. Most tool rental shops have the proper equipment.

Seeding
Seed applied to an established lawn is usually wasted. Grass seed will not germinate and become established unless it comes onto direct contact with bare, properly prepared soil.  Liqui-Lawn, therefore, recommends spot seeding as opposed to an over-all seeding each year. If your lawn has bare spots, you should remove all soil cover and prepare the bare soil prior to applying seed. Seeding in September produces the best results as the seed has time to establish itself during the fall and winter when growth is dormant.

Watering
Proper watering can be a major factor in maintaining the health and appearance of your lawn.

• Frequency - In most areas, you need to water your lawn during the months of April through September. During some of June, July and August (hot weather) more frequent waterings are necessary when daytime temperatures are above 85 degrees.
• Amounts - Most soils require one (1) inch of water to achieve adequate soaking to the proper depth of six (6) inches. The best way to determine when your lawn has received this amount is to place a can with vertical sides in the area in which your sprinkler is operating. Time your sprinkler to see how long it takes for the can to collect one (1) inch of water; that is how long each setting should be left in place before moving the sprinkler. Each different sprinkler should be measured the same way.
• Timing - During the cooler times of year, watering should be done during daylight hours only to limit the possibility of lawn diseases. When daytime temperatures pass 85 degrees, watering should occur at night. Avoid daily light applications of water.

Mowing
Proper mowing is essential to the development and appearance of your lawn.

• Frequency - During periods of slow growth, one mowing per week is sufficient. NEVER remove more than one-third (1/3) of the blade at one mowing.
• Height - 70 Degrees should be mowed to 2 1/2 inches, 80 degrees should be mowed to 3 inches and 90 degrees should be mowed to 3 1/2 or 4 inches. If you hire a service to mow, be sure they raise their mower to these recommendations as the temperature increases.
• Mower Blades - Keep your mower blades sharp. A sharp blade makes a clean, even cut. A dull blade tears the ends of the grass, leaving ragged, shredded tips. Mowing with a dull blade gives your lawn a brown overcast and makes it susceptible to disease. Most blades have to be sharpened three times a year.
• Clippings - Clippings return valuable nutrients to your lawn and as a general rule, should not be removed if the thatch layer on your yard is less than 3/4 inch.